Occasional Musings about grapegrowing and winemaking
|Posted on November 13, 2012 at 7:05 PM|
Marilyn and I drove to Traverse City, Michigan last week to purchase some gorgeous antique blue breganza bottles for this year's release of apple ice wine. We certainly could have used cheaper bottles, because the cost of the trip and the German imported bottles make them a bit pricey.
But "oh my gosh!" are they beautiful bottles. And something as tantalizing and smooth as ice wine deserves good presentation. Here's what they look like:
The dark teal color is so unusual, reminds me of the bottom of icebergs and promises something special. We hope you have an opportunity to try this occasional wine which we haven't released for two years. We had our eyes on some crab apples that keep their apples well into winter, so Josh and I spend the past few early mornings picking while the apples were still frozen. We'll post more on this delightful wine as we make it next week.
|Posted on October 5, 2012 at 10:55 AM|
Bird Netting. Arrgh!! Sooooo, on October 2 we picked the last 200 lbs of grapes, and learned that within two days we might very well have snow, and our overhead netting was still up. We didn't get it down one year, and it was absolutely shredded by heavy wet snow.
So there were "no excuses." We climbed ladders all Tuesday afternoon removing C-clips that hold our 50-foot wide sections together. We unclipped our side-curtain nets and pulled them back. And before supper we managed to pull back 2 out of 6 sections to the north edge of the vineyard.
Tuesday night it started drizzling, and we spent all Wednesday unclipping and sliding back the other four sections of overhead net in rain with occasional flurries of very large, wet snowflakes. By morning we were finished, and spent the whole afternoon with 6 100-foot rolls of 3/16" rope wrapping the net into a tight tube around its support wires, all along the north edge of the vineyard. And we stuffed the side curtains into 30-gallon wastebaskets with drainholes, then lashed the net tightly to one of the posts. At the end of the day, the netting was safe and lashed down for the year.
And wouldn't you know it, the next two days have been rain and snow free. Not warm, but at least not wet! I think I changed clothes 4 times on Wednesday and was really glad for a hot cup of coffee throughout the day.
Growing grapes in the northern latitudes is not for the timid. But the sense of accomplishment in doing the near impossible makes it all worth while.
|Posted on September 12, 2012 at 11:25 PM|
|Posted on September 2, 2012 at 11:20 AM|
You know how it is....for several years you hunger for a new piece of equipment but keep putting it off because of cost. And then when you finally get it, you wonder why you waited so long!!
LADDERS: 6 weeks ago after at least 5 years of yearning, we finally bought a pair of TALLMAN orchard ladders— those three-legged affairs. We bought a 12 footer and a 16 footer. These ladders are great! They are incredibly stable with a very wide base, and the third leg can be threaded through pretty messy branches to get you right to the fruit! At 29 lbs and 39 lbs respectively, these ladders are very light and easy to handle, although swinging a 16-footer is something else. We'll post a photo or two one of these days.
BARRELS: This past week, 8 nice French oak barrels arrived at the winery! We've had a couple in the past, but have put off more barrels because they cost so much, especially the French oak ones. Many winemakers find them more desirable than US barrels because they use a different species of oak with tighter grain, which produces a more subtle and gradual oaking of the wine.
You know, you can put wine in oak (barrels) or you can put oak (chips, cubes, staves, shavings) in wine. We've done it both ways and.....I really believe there's nothing that replaces a good barrel for aging and giving character to wine. We'll age some of our chokecherry wine in these new barrels and much of our Tongue-Tied red wine.
THE BIG TANK: As we planned for this year's harvest and purchased grapes, we realized we needed a bigger tank for our Tongue-Tied red wine blend. Our largest tanks in the past were 160 gallon tanks, but now we own a 400 gallon tank! (I know, I know. It's just a baby to those big, huge wineries!) We can't wait to fill this monster and enjoy blending.
MACRO BINS: We also purchased four Macro Bins, the staple fermentation tool of larger wineries. These are approx. 4-foot square plastic tanks. Ours are 33 inches high and they are a great way to ferment a lot of juice in one place. In the past, we had 3-4 55-gallon drums fermenting the same wine, and then we'd have to try to blend them together. This way we can ferment up to 200 gallons in one place. The garage is getting crowded, but it sure looks like we're serious about wine-making now!
We'll put up some new photos of our new toys sometime soon. Meanwhile, the crush will begin in a week and we'll be busy as can be for the rest of September. Raise a glass...for our success in the 2012 crush!
|Posted on August 14, 2012 at 10:05 PM|
Cherry Pie! Chocolate Covered Cherry! We're playing with a couple of new wines made with sour pie cherries. The wine will be a medium high alcohol (15% or so) and quite sweet— definitely a dessert wine, and we might make it both with and without chocolate or cocoa flavoring. I mean...is there anything that goes together better than chocolate and cherries??!!
The wine has fermented and we are awaiting its clarification. It tastes lovely but needs a bit more sweetening. It will definitely be ready before October, and will probably be offered in splits (half-sized bottles.) Ask for it at the winery!
This year will also be the first year we ferment Frontenac Blanc grapes. We'll try a few styles, but we expect to make a crisp, flinty semi-sweet white wine with these grapes we planted 3 years ago. We'll let you know when it's ready.
|Posted on July 30, 2012 at 12:25 PM|
Wanted to let you know that we and the grapes are surviving this long hot summer. After several irrigation/pump breakdowns the watering is going somewhat more smoothly. The grapes on the whole are loaded, especially the Frontenacs. Bob and Josh have been picking a LOT of chokecherries thanks to a bumper crop this year all around town, and have also picked some sour cherries for a fun new wine coming out this fall! Soon the bird netting will have to go up as the grapes are already starting to color. Working outside has been a challenge for sure; we all look forward to some cooler fall weather. It is a good thing to have to work at fermenting and bottling in the air-conditioned winery. We have also been appreciating the internet and the ability to take credit and debit cards with the iPad - customers appreciate it as well! We finally have some signs up at the corners so visitors can more easily find us here in the valley, thanks to Vida Landa (whose artwork is on our label!).
|Posted on June 27, 2012 at 1:35 AM|
Hello from the newest full-time member of the Tongue River Vineyard and Winery - Marilyn!! I have now quit my day job and have joined the guys in helping out in the garden, vineyard, and tasting room. Hopefully we can increase our marketing, offer more "fun" items for sale at the winery, and be more available for your special events. Look for more information on the web site as well!!
Right now we are challenged, not by frost as in the last blog, but by significant heat and dry. Difficulties with our drip irrigation system has been frustrating, but we are encouraged by how the grapes are growing and developing. The Frontenac grapes are especially doing well this year, and new plantings of Frontenac Blanc and Brianna (a lovely pineapple-scented grapes) have been put in to replace other grapes that have not done as well. Feel free to come out and tour eastern Montana's only vineyard - and taste the new wines!
|Posted on April 15, 2012 at 10:30 AM|
April 15 (OMG it's Tax Day!)
But vineyard owners in the midwest haven't been thinking about taxes. They've been consumed with information about frost. For many, this has been the worst year on record. Let me provide a bit of background on how we measure and what we do in the spring.
- PHENOLOGY:Vineyardists, like many nature watchers, use a concept called "phenology" which is the study, notation and attention paid to when things happen. Generally, grapes bud out in Miles City around Mid-May. This year, it appears likely to happen around April 20th, more than three weeks early. Generally, our flowering crabs blossom about May 15th as well. This year they are already in blossom. Everything across the midwest has been about a month or more early.
- GROWING DEGREE DAYS (GDD): This is a measurement tool that sums up the average heat above 50° F. throughout the growing year. 50° F because that's approximately the temperature above which grape tissue actually does something and doesn't just sit there. In Miles City, we get about 2700 GDD each year. Generally about this time, we've only had 15-20 GDD. But this year we're already up to 85.
- STAGES OF GROWTH: Why do GDD matter? Well, with most hybrid grape varieties, budbreak happens at about 100 GDD, and up until just before budbreak, the vines can take a pretty good freeze. At budbreak and after, just a couple degrees below freezing can be deadly (literally!)
WHY THIS MATTERS:
- LATE FROSTS: With spring so early this year, we are all at risk for late frosts that can kill the buds (but not the plant.) It just means that we might have to do all the work of pruning, training, etc. and get nothing in return this year. SO FAR with 85 GDD, we have not reached budbreak, so the frosts haven't harmed us. But our last hard frost average is close to the middle of May, so we might lose our crop in the next four weeks even though things look good now.
- HOW ARE OTHERS DOING? GDD in Minnesota, Wisconsin, Iowa, Nebraska, Michigan is well up toward or above 200. That means their buds have burst, and they have little canes between 1-3 inches long. And they are having hard frosts in some of those locations.
- HOW BAD CAN IT GET? I just read last night that it appears that up to 90% of the Welch's controlled vineyards in Michigan might be a total loss this year. Iowa reports that they believe they might be somewhere between 10-90% damaged, depending on location and variety. Damage is being reported everywhere in the frost zone that has had such a warm spring.
WHAT CAN BE DONE?
- HEAT: A number of vineyards use huge propane jets (like a salamander heater only 10 times as big) and drive up and down the rows trying to heat the air. Some hire expensive helicopters to hover over their vineyards in a moving pattern, to push warmer air above down to the ground. Others light smudge fires.
- OVERHEAD SPRINKLING: Some vineyards are set up to spray water on their vines overhead, coating the leaves, buds, twigs, everything. The science of this is that as water freezes, it gives off heat, and keeps the tissue beneath the ice just above freezing. But it's tricky to do, and most of us don't have the equipment or enough water to do this job.
- SPRAYING WITH CHEMICALS: Some vineyards have tried spraying with certain fertilzers/chemicals that are supposed to be cryo-protectants. There IS some evidence that this might work, but only for a few degrees. You might survive at 30° F, but not at 22° F if the buds have opened.
- DIVERSIFY. Here at Tongue River Vineyard & WInery, we had a total crop failure two years ago due to frost at the other end of the year: Early hard fall frosts can severely weaken the above-ground portion of vines if they haven't had time to harden off and get ready for winter. We got caught due to frosts on my wife's birthday (Oct 10th) and a couple more days in 2009, which basically killed everything above ground. We spent all of the summer of 2010 rebuilding the trunks, cordons and canes for the 2011 harvest and it paid off.
But many vineyard/winery operations have ONLY grapes, and that's where the real hurt comes in our unpredictable climate. We did pretty well our opening year because of all of our fruit wines, and we continue to increase and expand our offerings there. We will pick our first haskaps and Canadian cherries this year. We've significantly increased our holdings in apples, pears, black currants, sand cherries, raspberries, elderberries and rhubarb. And our two highest selling wines continue to be rhubarb and Foxy Lady (our apple/currant blend.)
Anyone engaged in any farming venture needs to be able to shrug one's shoulders and say, "oh well, next year." Or as our friends in Broadus, just south of us like to say even more cynically, "This is year after next country!"
Pray for frost free weather for the rest of spring. Please. Double, triple infinite please!!
|Posted on March 3, 2012 at 3:35 PM|
Phew! We had a great end of year sales period, and have been steadily bottling the 2011 harvest. We've just finished a big batch of apple wine.
Now we turn our thoughts to the 2012 season and what it might entail. Several growers in neighboring states now have vines old enough for fruiting, and several have contacted us to see if we are interested in any or all of their harvest. Are we? The questions running through my mind are:
- How much wine are we likely to sell with existing retail partners?
- How many more retail outlets might we negotiate by year end?
- How many tons of grapes do people want to sell?
- How much do we think we can sell as wine?
- We processed about 5 tons of grapes in 2011. What additional equipment would we need to do 10 tons? 15 tons?
- Do we have the labor for such an expansion?
- Do we have the working capital to buy more equipment and the fruit?
I find that there's a lot more office/paperwork stuff to do than I anticipated. Relax...take a deep breath...drink another half-glass of that great dry red Tongue-Tied we made this winter...it'll be okay...
The 2011 wines turned our really well, and we've come to appreciate that hybrid grapes grown in SE Montana can produce some really fine wines.
So come see us! Come taste our wines. Then buy our wines and take some with you! And share the joy!
|Posted on October 18, 2011 at 9:40 AM|
All 16 of our wine tanks are now cradling this year's wine as it clarifies and ages. If next year's prospects turn out as we expect, we'll need to buy more and larger equipment again.
This year we will be offering four new wines: (well, some were so limited last year that it's as if they were new!)
Perfect Kiss— a field-blended white wine that we sampled last night and found delicious! Light, semi-sweet, lots of fruit and berries, perhaps strawberry.
La Crescent— This one is a bit like Riesling with an apricot finish in a semi-sweet style. This has gained a lot of rave reviews from those who have tasted it.
Aranciano— White on skins! This wine looks pink/orange colored, is tannic, full-bodied and you'd swear is a red wine when you taste it. It's in an American Oak barrel for three weeks.
Frontenac Gris— Barrel fermented for a week, malolactic fermented (gives a buttery, smoother taste), this wine was produced like a classic chardonnay. Dry, oaky, a good white table wine.
White V— We don't produce White Zin because Zin won't grow here without protection. But Valiant will. When crushed and immediately pressed from the skins, the wine has little color. Done as an off-dry, light wine something like White Zin with a hint of Concord flavor.
Marquette— The flagship U of Minn. grape which produces a full-bodied red wine with a nice balance of tannins, sugars and acid. This wine will be oaked and aged at least a few months before release.
Frontenac— Another U of MINN release with very rich, dark color, a hint of cherry.
Unnamed— We will release a blend of Marquette and Frontenac early next year when we determine what blend percentages are the best. A good, dry, tannic full-bodied red wine. (We named it TONGUE-TIED!)
Sabrevois Nouveau— Done in the style of Beaujolais, a light hearted festive red wine with lots of fruit, little tannin and very approachable. We hope to release it on the traditional Beaujolais Nouveau date: The third Thursday in November.
Our other wines offered last year will all mostly be available as well. Since are tanks are all in use, we cannot make more raspberry, black currant, haskap and Foxy Lady until we empty out some cherry wines. But they will be coming along again at the turn of the year.
Thanks to all of our customers and retail partners for a great first year!